Decisions And Trade Offs

We had originally planned to visit Mesa Verde but have changed our plans and will make arrangements to take a ride on the Durango & Silverton Rail Road. We will miss Mesa Verde but with the latest dump of snow it may be more difficult to get around and only a limited part of the park is open in the winter. We feel soaked and pampered in Pagosa Springs but leaving is a road trip of the less desirable kind. It is cold, 17 degrees, and gets down to 14 as we climb over a couple passes. The road has a light covering of snow and there is ice in a lot of places. It is nice to have 4 wheel drive and good snow tires but we know there is nothing that really works on ice. We travel well under the normal speed limit eating into the time we have to meet the train. Before one curve there is an emergency vehicle with lights flashing to warn us to slow down. Around the bend is an ambulance and other rescue vehicles for a single car that just went off the road. On down the road a service truck ahead of us tries to stop for a red light and slid into the intersection. We press on and just make our train despite having allowed a lot of extra time.

The rail trip exceeds our high expectations. It is a wonderful day, although cold it is clear and there is a light dusting of new snow on the mountains. The route leaves Durango and climbs along the Animus River. It is picturesque before it turns stunning. There are deep gorges and narrow clearances. The rock walls are closer than any Disney ride and the conductor frequently reminded the passengers to keep their arms and heads inside the cars but it doesn’t require much reinforcement. We see mule deer, a mountain goat and countless prairie dogs but miss the bear that has been sited on several previous trips. This rail route is one of the most amazing in the world comparable to the Copper Canyon Mexico route and the Yukon Pass route in Alaska. The trains are original steam trains and run on good old coal. Another instruction for the staff is to keep your eyes covered if in the open observation car, embers are a part of this journey as is the sound of steam and the smell of burning coal. The cars we ride in are over 100 years old and the engine is from the 1920s. We are tired from our travels but there is a tension between dozing off to the gentle rhythm of the train ride and wanting to be wide awake to take in every aspect of the natural environment. After our return to Durango, Sybil & Susan go shopping in the great shops in the town. Both manage to find new shoes in this place. We are staying at the Strater Hotel, also over 100 years old but in great shape. Each room is restored to look old but newly efficient. The stairs are so steep they would never be approved by modern designers.
We find a great place for dinner, the Cypress Café, then Sybil and Henry wrap up their evening by going off to the Palace Hotel for desert.